This thread is mostly on how to build a fixie from a 10 or 12 speed road bike frame. I know most people who are converting fixies don't build from a bare frame like me. If one of my friends wants to build a fixie out of a complete road bike, then I will make a thread about it. My first fixie was this crappy $200 17teeth pista fixie. I modified it a bit and then it started falling apart. I needed a new fixie! I didn't really want to buy a nice fixie, so I decided to have some fun and put the cheap parts on a 1960s West German Jaguar 10 speed that I got for $30 at the bike co op. Plus, I always had a certain respect for fixed gear conversions. I found out that the frame was a low end model and was too rusty to build. Also, the cranks were stuck together and the frame was bent. The bike is now just a frame. 2 weeks later, I picked up this Chaparral for $50. It was already converted and painted orange. Sadly the frame cracked due to a manufacturing defect. This bike became the downer bike for my fixie build. I traded the cracked frame for this 1981 Schwinn World Sport. This bike became my awesome fixie. If you do a conversion, please don't convert a nice or rare bike. Leave the nice and rare bikes as 10 or 12 speeds. You want to convert a mid level bike. I used most of the parts from the Chaparral on my Schwinn frame. When you look for a frame, look for an even or mostly even seat tube brazer Like the one on my Schwinn. The Jaguar has an uneven brazer, a more extreme version of this caused the Chaparral to crack. This is a brake bridge, it holds the rear brake onto the frame. The picture is from my 1993 Specialized Allez Comp. The Schwinn's brake bridge is a tube. This is what you want to look for. The Jaguar's brake bridge is a plate. This means cost cutting. If you see a bike with this,don't buy it. The cheap fixie has track fork ends(not dropouts). This bike has these because it's meant for a fixed or singlespeed setup. Road bikes don't have these. Old road bikes have mostly have horizontal dropouts, this is what you should look for. The only problem is that if the wheel slips forward, it will fall out. This will lead in dumps. Mostly newer bikes will have this, but it is a vertical dropout. With a singlespeed setup, you can't adjust it. Don't buy a bike with this style of dropout. I put a front brake on my fixie. I don't recommend brakeless. Have at least one brake. Use foot retention if you plan to have one brake or go brakeless. I used rattrap pedals with toe clips and straps. I put a KMC track chain on my fixie, but it was too short and I didn't have extra links. Make sure your axle is half way or more into the dropouts. Use a proper fixed gear hub with a lockring. There is a reason why fixed gear cogs on freewheel hubs are called suicide hubs. Also use track nuts to avoid wheel slippage. Track nuts have a larger surface area and built in washers. Make sure you use short cranks to reduce pedal strike with the lower road bike bottom bracket shell. I used 65mm cranks. Don't use cottered cranks because they get loose when you backpedal. To avoid the wheel falling out, use a lower gear ratio. I used a 38 tooth chainring and a 14 tooth cog. Also, make sure that you have a straight chain line. Lil light. Parts! More parts! Here is the bike almost complete, it just needs a new chain. Make sure the slit in the frame for the seatpost clamp has a rounded end like my Schwinn. If it has a square end like the jaguar, that means it is more likely to crack. Avoid bikes like this. I put a Velo track chain on my fixie and it is rideable now. Closeup of said Velo chain. My fixie in front of an aspen tree. I took my fixie on an 18 mile ride, and the cheap seat hurt my butt. I upgraded to a Selle Italia Flite. It is from Italy! Italy! Here is my finished fixie! Make sure to post your finished fixie on http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/in...es-any-fixed-wheel-bicycle-is-allowed.107696/!