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thats one serious looking partner in crime. i don't advise disagreeing with her. :lol:

too cool rob, keep us posted.

is that a sanding flap wheel on the drill? might wanna give a wire wheel a try. strips the paint real quick without removing metal. :)
 
Ya , for the most part I was using the wire wheel. Had those flapper wheels sittin around so I had her give them a go. Sure gets rid of the paint fast though. And ya, she gives a little attitude when you try takin the drill away from her :D
icyuod2 said:
thats one serious looking partner in crime. i don't advise disagreeing with her. :lol:

too cool rob, keep us posted.

is that a sanding flap wheel on the drill? might wanna give a wire wheel a try. strips the paint real quick without removing metal. :)
 
HotRodRob said:
Having trouble getting the stem out of the fork. I don't want to wreck that fork cause ccm womans ballooner forks are impossible to find, especially with a 10 1/4" steer tube :shock: I guess we'll let it soak with wd40 over night and try again tomorrow.

have you hammered down on the stem bolt real good? on my buildoff bike this year I got the stem free of its wedge, which I abandoned down in the fork, and after I got the stem off, I got the wedge out by means of a big punch. To be fair, my fork was trash, so we went at 'er like nobody's business. I also used heat on it, which seemed to help.
 
that will have one of those stupid old style wedged stem's.

it doesn't have the wedge on the side, insted the stem is split it the middle and the wedge prys it open.

problem is, it flairs out the bottom of the stem and sometimes flares, even bursts the fork tube making it a larger diameter and a p.i.t.a to get the stem out.

loosen the bolt as much as possible, them hammer it down to ensure the wedge is outta the way.
next get some leverage on the forks. i advise screwing 2 pieces of 2x4 on both side of the cross brace so ya dont bend em.

then twist like theres no tomorrow (forks/bars) pulling up all the while. treat it like its threaded till ya work it all the way out.
hth
 
onelesspedestrian said:
HotRodRob said:
Having trouble getting the stem out of the fork. I don't want to wreck that fork cause ccm womans ballooner forks are impossible to find, especially with a 10 1/4" steer tube :shock: I guess we'll let it soak with wd40 over night and try again tomorrow.

have you hammered down on the stem bolt real good? on my buildoff bike this year I got the stem free of its wedge, which I abandoned down in the fork, and after I got the stem off, I got the wedge out by means of a big punch. To be fair, my fork was trash, so we went at 'er like nobody's business. I also used heat on it, which seemed to help.
The wedge actually broke free ok, it's the aluminum stem in the steel steer tube that is stuck. I wire wheeled the top where I could see the corrosion and it is clean but must be corroded inside. I guess I'll cross my fingers for tomorrow.
 
icyuod2 said:
that will have one of those stupid old style wedged stem's.

it doesn't have the wedge on the side, insted the stem is split it the middle and the wedge prys it open.

problem is, it flairs out the bottom of the stem and sometimes flares, even bursts the fork tube making it a larger diameter and a p.i.t.a to get the stem out.

loosen the bolt as much as possible, them hammer it down to ensure the wedge is outta the way.
next get some leverage on the forks. i advise screwing 2 pieces of 2x4 on both side of the cross brace so ya dont bend em.

then twist like theres no tomorrow (forks/bars) pulling up all the while. treat it like its threaded till ya work it all the way out.
hth
Thanks for the tip Leigh. I'll do my best in the morning, as long as it's not pouring out.
 
sorry bout the sketch :roll:
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so those old stems have a split on the bottom. and a wedge thats driven in to the middle.

when there reefed on, they often flare the fork tupe as well (2nd doodle)

thats probably what your dealing with.
now even though the wedge let loose it could be the wedge is still in place (ie the bolt snaps just above the wedge) if you dont remove it, your task will be impossible (or next too)

now if your bolt did snap above the wedge (which it usually does) that bolt won't be long enough to remove the wedge.

remove the bolt, take a metal dowel/really long screw driver and ensure that wedge is removed (hammer down through the bolt hole, when it lets loose it will just fall to the bottom of the fork tube.)

the rest is just a battle of will.
you gotta pull hard enough to force the stem through the fork tube compressing the flared end back to its original diameter.

i assure you, it won't be easy, but it is do'able.

i'd be willing to bet cash, this is the case with your ccm (ontop of the corrosion)
 
If thats an aluminium stem then it could be that aluminium oxide has built up between the stem and the fork tube, holding things fast. You could try working some sodium hydroxide between the stem and tube to loosen it up.

Things are looking good and it would be a pity to right off that stem.
 
What a great way to spend time with your daughter. Just a suggestion, but you might want to invest in a pair of safety glasses for her if she's going to be using that sand flapper or any other grinding tools.
 
jimw1960 said:
What a great way to spend time with your daughter. Just a suggestion, but you might want to invest in a pair of safety glasses for her if she's going to be using that sand flapper or any other grinding tools.

and a hair tie (straight from a guy with long hair a lack of respect for power tools. :) )
 
Finally found some time to do some more work on the old girl. Striped the rest of the frame down and finally got the stem out of the head tube without breaking it. While the bearings are all soaking in gas we cleaned up all the bottom bracket hardware and headset hardware. I did some polishing on the stem as well. Sanded it with 320,800 and then 1000 and followed that up with a vigorous rubbing with Mothers mag polish. I think it came up pretty nice. Got the crank polished as well. Goin paint shoppin tonite with the kid so hopefully the rain holds off tomorrow so I can hit it with some color.
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Found this on the steer tube. Never knew that CCM's used English steer tubes. Not sure what the A&P B means..anyone?
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The old girl cleaned up pretty nice. How do you like those industrial bottom bracket bearing cups? I freaked when I first saw those and never bothered to get them out. It looks like they were machined in the frame! They don't make 'em like they use to. :)
 
xddorox said:
The old girl cleaned up pretty nice. How do you like those industrial bottom bracket bearing cups? I freaked when I first saw those and never bothered to get them out. It looks like they were machined in the frame! They don't make 'em like they use to. :)

Ya they are pretty beefy. I haven't tried to take them out yet. It's amazing that after 61 years the bearings and races clean up like new too. All the races and nuts are stamped CCM as well which I think is really cool 8) Just got back from picking up some Krylon for it too.
 
HotRodRob said:
... I haven't tried to take them out yet. It's amazing that after 61 years the bearings and races clean up like new too. All the races and nuts are stamped CCM as well which I think is really cool 8) Just got back from picking up some Krylon for it too.

Don't bother taking them out. Mask them up, they are just fine where they are. :)
 
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