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I'm not sure I never weighted it. I'm guessing about 65lb so about 30kg.
2strokes are a pain in the butt, but they have a good power to weight ratio.
And yes there is a new build, going with a 4stroke this time. 5hp briggs.Mostly I just wanted to use up some cool old parts
I had around and try out a few ideas for making them work.
Did you ever get your shaft turned?
 
Hey there,
Glad to know you're gonna start another one. Will it be belt driven?
I did'nt get the engine shaft turned. The guy asked me to disassemble it.. I guess that is the only way to get the job done properly, but I dont wanna do that. I already had a hard time getting a good carb, let alone if I had to look for something else that got ruined..
I think I'll do 11T to 18T input on jackshaft to 11T output from clutch to 35 or 44T final.
Or.... I'll have a belt arrangement!
I have'nt decided yet!
Will a belt setting with a tensioner lever work?
 
Not sure if you could go from the motor straight to the back wheel, even if you used a 3inch on the motor and 24inch hoop on the wheel
that only gives you 8to 1 which is not quite there 11 or 12 to one is a little better.
As for me I'm still working out drive train issues my self, but it looks like belt off the motor and chain to the back wheel.
and trying to keep the pedal drive is a whole other thing to work out. but it would keep it road legal as a "motor-assisted" bike.
 
Glad to know. Can we see some pics?
I have been lazy on this one for a while. I'm working on a "The bride of Frankenstein" theme bike for my wife and stoped a bit on the btr.
I'm only missing the trans issue. Everything else seems to be good enough for a test run.
I guess I'm gonna go with 11T to 18T input on jackshaft to 11T output from clutch to 35 or 44T final drive. Then I'll get busy with the clutch's spring and try to make it work.
I'm also having a bit of trouble getting the engine to idle. It seems to have an automatic governor inside..
Keep it up.
 
Hello, I am a "new" old member here and was directed here by a friend who informed me there are motorized RatRods. I have a 35cc Honda mail order belt drive and just snagged a 76mm 4 cycle horizontal engine. I might be needing one of those Hillard clutches and a little more intuition.. The reason I am quoting you is to find out if any of the original images of the build are available still? I would like to perhaps get a larger stronger belt fixed to a rim somehow.. Whizzer belts were made to last around the block.. I think perhaps even a 3 wheeler with an axle driven belt would be smoooooth..

I don't say much it's true but hopefully the things I bring fourth can help those peeking in to get motivated with a camera!

Cheers

stocksucks said:
Glad to know. Can we see some pics?
I have been lazy on this one for a while. I'm working on a "The bride of Frankenstein" theme bike for my wife and stoped a bit on the btr.
I'm only missing the trans issue. Everything else seems to be good enough for a test run.
I guess I'm gonna go with 11T to 18T input on jackshaft to 11T output from clutch to 35 or 44T final drive. Then I'll get busy with the clutch's spring and try to make it work.
I'm also having a bit of trouble getting the engine to idle. It seems to have an automatic governor inside..
Keep it up.
Click to expand...
 
Hi there.
I've been absent for a while, so sorry for the late answer.
Unfortunately I've lost all the images hosted because imagehost-org closed. I've got all the originals though.
What part of the build would you like to look at?
Thanks for contributing.
Keep it up.
 
AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! :x :x :x
Goin crazy about this bike...
After all I'll have to go with a belt system: I've got a screw-on modified cent clutch and guess what, the rotation when mounted on the other side of the jackshaft makes it unscrew..
Any ideas on how to fix a 20" rim to the spokes of a 26" rim to make a pulley?
Thanks
 
yes you can bend up some l shaped tabs that bolt or rivet to the rim and down to the small rim sort of S shape. This has been done befor and it works good............Curt
 
i am running a rear sheave from a whizzer, you can pick them up on ebay. they make mounting kits for them but i just use large flat washers that clamp to the spokes and it works excellent! the one feller said that whizzer belts were made to last around the block? not sure, i use 1/2inch wide v-belts like the whizzers and have probably over 4thousand miles on my rear one and no issues. :? the front belt you can slip the clutch all day long and they hold up. my experience gates, jason, and rotary are very good belts to use. the one one the rear of mine is a gates lawn mower belt.
 
I'm replying to Stocksucks questions on another thread so not to hijack thread.

You asked about me bolting my sheave to the rear wheel via brackets, you asked if alignment was a problem, and also if the bolts damage the tube.

I made sure all my brackets were identical and I had no problem getting a decent alignment first time, and I haven't touched it since. Also it should be noted that alignment isn't as critical with a belt drive as it is with a chain drive setup.

The bolts I used to attach the sheave to the rear wheel were domehead Allen key bolts from the inside of both the rim and sheave. I also used nylock nuts. I then covered the bolt heads on the rear wheel/rim with a rubber wheel liner available from bike stores.

I never encountered any problems with my driveline and it performed perfectly with little to no adjustments, the chain drive to my china girl bikes have been a pain. What with the chain hitting the rear tyre, chain guide slipping and broken spokes, constant tightening of the chain.
 
if you use a whizzer sheave you don't have to widen the rear part of the frame for clearance. you have to if you use a rim for a pulley, right?
 
murraymadman said:
if you use a whizzer sheave you don't have to widen the rear part of the frame for clearance. you have to if you use a rim for a pulley, right?
Click to expand...

Good point Murray.... Yes I widened my rear fork section to accommodate my sheave, but that has as much to do with how I positioned the jackshaft. I can't see any reason why you couldn't position the sheave with brackets without widening the rear fork.
 
Thanks guys.
Murray: I won't have to widen the frame, 'cause it was all built from scratch, and made to fit the rear hub, which is from a motorcycle, so lots of space.
Harry: did you first fix the rim to the spokes somehow, and then measure, drill and bolt the sheaves? I think it is a method of doing it. And also, do the sheaves have to be made out of a thick piece of metal or is the final arrangement (6 or 8 sheaves) strong enough?
Thanks again for helping.
Keep it up.
 
I measured my rear wheel diameter, and also measured the sheave. Half of the difference in the diameters will be the height of the brackets. (Remember when folding metal to allow for thickness of material)

It really wasn't all that hard to do, then I simply tightened the bolts on the sheaves in a cross pattern to allow for alignment.

I think I used between 2 - 3mm stainless steel plate (only because I get it for free). The closer your sheave is to the rear wheel means the brackets can be a little lighter.

Hope that helps
 
But NO, I didn't at any point fix the sheave to the spokes. I believe I bolted a few brackets to the sheave and to the rear wheel, then added the rest. But I didn't do the final tightening until all brackets were in place. It's a fiddly job but not really very hard.
 
The hardest part of it was drilling into the Stainless Steel brackets, as I said I get it for free from work but have trouble getting mild steel, so I used the S/S, but it isn't necessary. You will find mild steel 100 x easier to work with.
 

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