Goodrich Clunker (done and updated 11-20)

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Aquired this frame a while ago when I bought the 1950 Schwinn ladies for wife's anniv. present. It is a 1948 Goodyear by Schwinn. So far the stem seems stuck as does the headset, but havent got out the heat or a hammer yet. I will only be using the frame so if other damage occurs.....oh well.

Gonna use the chrome fork in the pic and some other parts. No real direction yet. I have some drum brakes I am going to try and use if I can figure out how to lace to 26" wheels.

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Not much progress but got the fork and stem off the frame. The neck was rusted and heat/force combo didn't work. So I cut it off with the grinder.

I love makin sparks................................

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I think the pain has just begun. the fork I want to use has a very small inside diameter. Tried 5 stems and didnt find one that fit. Is there a smaller size that may come on older road bikes? Also need to find a Seatpost.
 
Alot of the older forks could be 21.1mm inside diameter(although you can still find those made), most quills and quill adapters made now seem to be 22.2mm(7/8"). This sizing issue is true of the headset top nuts also. You can still find 21.1mm quill stems and headsets, but I've not seen a quill adapter in that size though.
 
Cman- do u have a heated shop or are u chill'n like me? Hard for paint 2 dry @34d. !!! Nice to see a dusting of snow on my ride though! Got the fork problem solved? L8 EM
 
Duke... Found a stem for 10 bucks. The shop is not heated but never freezes either. I don't really plan on too much of a paint job as the frame is already flat black with some of the original dark red showing through. I might paint the front to resemble a DX or something like Hooch recently did.
 
cman, I've had to cut those stems out before and it aint easy. You can't get the heat inside the fork tube where you need it while it is mounted in the frame. Now that you have it out, you might re-heat it and get the stem out if you want to save the fork. Just heat the fork tube and not the stem piece. Make sure the tapered locking lug is loose on the stem piece. Nice looking frame!!!
 
Here are some pics of some used MX bars with some cool bullet style grips new from Pyramid. And also of the drum Brake hubs I plan on trying to lace up. Each hub came on wacky sized rims- 24 x 1 3/8 (ea5?) and 26x 1 1/2 (650b- french), so I am going to lace to modern MTB rims. One drum is Norwegen and the other is a Grimea-Italy.

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So you probably can now guess where I am going with this build.
 
Them drums are cool but not sure about the functionality.

Laced the front up tonight. A little tricky with the different sized flanges on the either side especially using spokes that may or may not be the right size.
Either way it will be fun to ride for slower or faster.
 
Relaced the drum brake as I forgot to cross the spokes under on the 3rd cross. This should now meet Hugo's approval.

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I just use a flat bladed screwdriver and multisized spoke wrench.

Follow either Hugo's tutorial
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic. ... light=lace

or Sheldon's
http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#lacing

For a truing stand use the a fork in vice or bike upside down. I use some spring clips to hold some thin wood strips next to the rim on both sides. Tru it once and then move the strips in closer.

Yeh paying a shop to lace a wheel gets expensive. I have another wheel to lace for this build. It will be my second and hopefully go a little smoother.
 
I mounted the newly laced wheel and made a little bracket for the drum brake so the drum is not out of alignment/rubs.
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Fork and handlebars all mounted up to the frame. Put the shifter and both brake handles one but need to get longer cable to make it to the back. The bike got a little paint job just on the front. Leaving the ratty black on the back.

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