GLENDERSON - [winter build off]

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Do you think this would be strong enough to mount the seat on? o_O

shifter3.jpg


Its a shifter mount idea by Bigcam59 that can be found here...

http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/in...hifter-mount-and-stickshift-conversion.66386/

Hose clamp and tube... could it be that simple? :banghead:

Glen.
 
Glen said:
Do you think this would be strong enough to mount the seat on? o_O

shifter3.jpg


Its a shifter mount idea by Bigcam59 that can be found here...

http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/in...hifter-mount-and-stickshift-conversion.66386/

Hose clamp and tube... could it be that simple? :banghead:

Glen.
Click to expand...
I tend to think that would still slip on you Glen... :confused:

The clamp you showed is what I was thinking off, forgot the tank would be tight up on it... I have seen ones that have the hoop part flattened and then it rounds back out for the threads, but I don't know what they are called or where to find them...

Luke.
 
Last edited:
let's see if I can put this into words... take a seat tube sized piece of steel bent into a J, weld the lower bit of J onto the junction of the top tube and the rear stays, with the long tube facing forward... turn the connector on your seat to slide over the J... adjustment is along the length of the J. Savvy?

Carl.
 
GuitarlCarl said:
let's see if I can put this into words... take a seat tube sized piece of steel bent into a J, weld the lower bit of J onto the junction of the top tube and the rear stays, with the long tube facing forward... turn the connector on your seat to slide over the J... adjustment is along the length of the J. Savvy?

Carl.
Click to expand...

06/02/2014

Aye... might this be what ye be talking about...

40_CarlSeatPost.jpg


Good idea matey... but I have no way of bending any metal to a J-like shape. For that matter, I don't even know if I have enough tubing in that there appropriate diameter.

But you inspired me... you did... to think of this...

41_SeatPost.jpg


Flat steel welded to the top tube vertically five or six inches apart. Nuts welded into the ends of a length tubing to facilitate the attaching of said tubing to the aforementioned vertical bits of metal through strategically place holes.

What say you?

Glen.
 
What about instead of bending, cut and weld your seat post into an L and weld tothe top tube. Thats how I lay back all my seat posts.

Nito
 
rubsterob said:
I can bend a j for you. What diameter you want? You pay shipping. It'll be about $372 rough estimate

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hmmm... thanks for the offer, but the more I look at the H version, the more I like it. And it will probably only cost me $3.72.

Glen.

Sent from my computer using fingers ;)

nito900rr said:
What about instead of bending, cut and weld your seat post into an L and weld tothe top tube. Thats how I lay back all my seat posts.

Nito
Click to expand...

Yes, that's a nice idea too... but I really am quite fond of the letter H even though the top bits will be shorter to look more like a flat topped n. :p

Glen.
 
Not sure what the underside of your seat looks like but take all the hardware off so there should be just 2 rails directly on top of the top tube and just put a hose clamp around everything nice and tight


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rubsterob said:
Not sure what the underside of your seat looks like but take all the hardware off so there should be just 2 rails directly on top of the top tube and just put a hose clamp around everything nice and tight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Actually that might work, a lot less leverage if it is mounted directly to the top tube...
Love the H frame idea Glen!

Luke.
 
Run with it Glen, Make it strong, hose clamps are for hosers...

Carl.
 
rubsterob said:
Not sure what the underside of your seat looks like but take all the hardware off so there should be just 2 rails directly on top of the top tube and just put a hose clamp around everything nice and tight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That does sound easy... and I like easy. This idea merits further investigation... and 10 brownie points :41:

GuitarlCarl said:
Run with it Glen, Make it strong, hose clamps are for hosers...

Carl.
Click to expand...

However, Carl does have a point... strong is good. This observation also deserves 10 brownie points :41:

nito900rr said:
Like this maybe?
epemu7e8.jpg


Nito
Click to expand...

But for going to the effort of drawing the exact thing I was thinking of... Nito earns double the points :41::41:

Glen.
 
06/02/2014 (continued)

Well I thought the old hose-clamp-around-the-seat-rail-trick would indeed be an easy way to go... and it would... if I had a hose clamp handy. However, I do have the ability to buy one, so I went down to the garage to see if it might work...

42_Seat.jpg


It probably would work, but there would be no tiltabality... so the H bar seat post wins I think. I will use an old handlebar as donor tube. I had a look in my pile and discovered I will need to get some bigger nuts o_O

I will leave you with that thought...

Glen.

PS: Luke is right... enough dilly-dallying here... off to work, the lot of you :bigboss:
 
That funny thing is I've seen a BMX bike that didn't have a seat post at all. They laid the seat on the top tube and used a shoe lace to tie it on. Very ghetto and not sure if it was durable at all. But then again a seat on a BMX bike is never used while riding if at all. Usually only while sitting in front of a jump contemplating if you really want to hit it or not.


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