Just a couple of pics to tease my next project. Should have some more pics on Thursday-ish to really show what I have planned...
Dave's Oldster project: "Old Soul"
- Thread starter gowjobs
- Start date
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- #chunky #girder tspcyclefarm
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"Dave, is that a 26 inch tire?"
"You bet your fuzzy bottom it is, my brother. 26x4.0 Origin8 Supercell."
"You bet your fuzzy bottom it is, my brother. 26x4.0 Origin8 Supercell."
That's a 4-3/4" wide "Stingray" ribbed steel motorcycle fender from Lowbrow Customs. I pinched the width in to about 4-1/2", which pushed the radius out to where it matches my tire, which (when mounted on a standard 26x2.125 or 28mm rim) measures around 30" tall.
I missed delivery of my new frame yesterday, so that will put off any update for another day or so. 
Didn't have much time this morning, so this is as much of a mock-up as you will see until tomorrow.
TSP Cycle Farm "Oldster T1" frame and an old girder fork from an NSU motorcycle.
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TSP Cycle Farm "Oldster T1" frame and an old girder fork from an NSU motorcycle.
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Thanks. I scored it from Walker out of the For Sale board here around six months ago, and have been saving it for just the right project. It won't be at quite as steep an angle when the bike is complete, but I do like the fact that the Oldster's headtube angle is far more upright than most stretch cruiser/chopper frames. I feel like it gives a bit of a NYC street chopper, or maybe a speedway bike vibe.
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Went to the LBS and did a more complete mock-up. Fork is actually bolted in place.
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Super 'LIKE' button pushed!
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Thanks, Doc!
No pics, but I thought I'd run down the mods made to the fork on Saturday:
1. Installed a headset with same stack height as the unit I intend to use on the finished bike, and trimmed down the 1-1/8" threaded steerer, meant for a knee-action springer.
2. Found K&S brass tubing with a 3/8" ID (snug fit on the lower link pivot bolt) and an OD juuuuust a little larger than the ID of the pivot on the bottom of the steerer.
3. Cut a length of the tubing to match the width of the steerer, and sanded the outside with 220 grit until I could juuuust start to force it inside the steerer pivot.
4. Slipped the pivot bolt into the tubing, jammed it as far as I could into the steerer by hand, and then hammered on the head of the bolt until the tubing was flush with the end of the pivot.
5. Now that I had a new full-length brass bushing (brass/bronze is good for this because it self-lubricates, preventing seizing in the future), I needed spacers to make the pivot as wide as the span between the lower links on the girder fork (about 1-1/2" wider than the Schwinn style springer legs). I found steel 3/8 ID spacers in a 3/4 length at the hardware store, and put brass washers on the ends to help them turn easily.
6. Bolted up everything, and checked for smooth action/no binding.
Also done today - unmounted that big tire and put an initial coat of bronze hammertone paint on the steel drop-center rims.
No pics, but I thought I'd run down the mods made to the fork on Saturday:
1. Installed a headset with same stack height as the unit I intend to use on the finished bike, and trimmed down the 1-1/8" threaded steerer, meant for a knee-action springer.
2. Found K&S brass tubing with a 3/8" ID (snug fit on the lower link pivot bolt) and an OD juuuuust a little larger than the ID of the pivot on the bottom of the steerer.
3. Cut a length of the tubing to match the width of the steerer, and sanded the outside with 220 grit until I could juuuust start to force it inside the steerer pivot.
4. Slipped the pivot bolt into the tubing, jammed it as far as I could into the steerer by hand, and then hammered on the head of the bolt until the tubing was flush with the end of the pivot.
5. Now that I had a new full-length brass bushing (brass/bronze is good for this because it self-lubricates, preventing seizing in the future), I needed spacers to make the pivot as wide as the span between the lower links on the girder fork (about 1-1/2" wider than the Schwinn style springer legs). I found steel 3/8 ID spacers in a 3/4 length at the hardware store, and put brass washers on the ends to help them turn easily.
6. Bolted up everything, and checked for smooth action/no binding.
Also done today - unmounted that big tire and put an initial coat of bronze hammertone paint on the steel drop-center rims.
Yeah, I just needed something with a thinner wall than what they stock. Some brass tubing from the hobby shop was the perfect size, and 24" of it is only $4.
Good looking mock-up!
Luke.
Luke.
Powerful!
Looks like a heck of a cool bike in the works
Thank you, gentlemen. Lots of parts due to arrive this week. Don't know how much time I will have for pictures, but I will attempt to get the wheels laced up on their drum/roller brake hubs by Sunday, at least.
