=D---- Laprise E-BTR

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yup , much better:happy:
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custom cut and shaped fender , hamered in a little ducktail too..
iam not sure iam gonna do braces for the fender since its way stong,
at the same time all BTR's had some , so idk
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next up should be the tank i think
ill have allot of fun trying to find a 25/32 seat post too :bigsmile::doh:
 
Building the tank shape to make a mold
Step by step:

glued layer of insulation foam shaped to fit in the frame
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tracing center lines and shaping the side shape
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tracing the top and bottom edges of what will remain the 'flat' parts of the tank and making a bevel on the sides
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rounding the sides with a rasp file , then apply a symetrical cardboard paper on top and bottom to define the edges
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here are the tools for the job , i then cut the tank in half on the fold line to the cardbord paper perfectly centered all around
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adde a thin layer of bondo to block the pores and have a sandable harder surface
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:113:
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ill be building a fiber glass mold over the 2 halfs and then make the fiber glass tanks in that:nerd:

:hi:
 
I saw an instructable where a guy built a tank for a mortorized bike, he used floral foam. No Bondo.
Made alot of work for himself, but it turned out well.
This should be better.
 
I saw an instructable where a guy built a tank for a mortorized bike, he used floral foam. No Bondo.
Made alot of work for himself, but it turned out well.
This should be better.
ouf yeah i bet , its fragile foam and the dust is aweful.

insulation foam is the best to carve imo , i added bondo to see if the curve was right , was pretty hard to see on the foam.
it will also save me some time on the finish peices ,makes it much smoother, i rather sand bondo now then sand the fiberglass finished peice:)
 
aluminum foil over the foam
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fiberglass over that with wood reinforcements
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a little bondo fix , then primed and no-stick spray
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battery in progress (not finished) connections were doubled with copper wires , 78 high quality lithium ion ''18650 cells'' 6 parallel 13 serries
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48v 20ah battery
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all whaped and working properly :rockout:
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overall look again , the tanks came out of the mold slightly out of shape , tryied to straight it by holding it in a jig and add fiber bondo , but now its heavy thicker than i wanted and still slightly off, the no-stick spray did not work so i had to cut the mold open so cant use it anymore... i am now considering srapping all of it and try to make one in sheet metal:39: oh well , its only a storage compartment , so its not needed to run the bike
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first test , first time i feel electric power on a bike
POWWWER!!! lots of torque , says 34kmh on the display:113:
 
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WOW!!!!
Sorry that I am just now seeing this remarkable build!!!
As usual you are once again proving to be a master of design, engineering, style, and execution!!!
Bravo my brother!
This thing is wicked!
 
WOW!!!!
Sorry that I am just now seeing this remarkable build!!!
As usual you are once again proving to be a master of design, engineering, style, and execution!!!
Bravo my brother!
This thing is wicked!
WOW! Blown away, you got serious skills. You're way outta my league, good job buddy.
:13::dontmentionit::rolleyes: Thank you guys!
 
Well , sux that photobucket blocked all my pics on all forums cause they decided to charge$ even tho i never exceeded my space limits ..
anyways , glad i used facebook as hosting for this build:thumbsup:
______________________________________________________

Some small progress , made the battery case and mount / faux cylinder heads.

Started with a aluminum plate i shaped , bent , drilled and tap to hold threaded stainless rods at 40degre to support the battery
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then fitted the smallest diameter tube i could fit over it = 3,5''ID could only find that in card board craft packing tube
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then found a drain pipe pvc fitting that fittted perfect over it and had a nice shape , then a other random piece on top that i turned on my wood lathe and press fit and glued
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then decided to melt some grooves in the pvc with a rod to make it look more like a vintage piston head
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then made a center plate to cover the cables
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then used a old pvc fitting i had laying around for years to make a exhaust port / cable exit
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this peice of card board was added to cover the slots i made to clear the corner of the BMS thats sticks out more than the reste , later sanded the edges smooth , and every cardboard was brushed with wood glue inside and out to stiffen it , make it a little bit more water proof ,and seal it for paint
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bug ...


then made top cover plates in sheet metal and welded a support witch witch tripples as added safety lock for the battery and a handle to carry the battery :nerd:
i threaded holes in the center of the base plate and center plate to use lamp fittings to hold the plate and passthrough the mounting bolts
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i like this little knob i kept in my recycle hardware collection haha , looks like its making me a wink :wink1: but its a (lock/unlock knob) witch is exactly how i use it , it will only be accessible from inside the key-locked faux-tank
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just need to mount the controller and make a seat and ill be able to test ride the thing:)
 
Before
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heat molded pan
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lowered rails and cleaned
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yoga mat padding and genuine leather
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pre-drilled all the holes with dremel and laced with waxed string
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and my BoardTrack racer seat is born :happy:
 
Beautiful and wicked details man!
 
a friend found me a good old crank and i went for a test ride , it goes about 45kmh :D
 
Looks fun and fast!

I would be remiss if I didn't bring up a concern that I have about your brakes considering the speeds that your riding. While the disk brake setup is super cool looking, it creates some issues that need to be thought through.

By moving the brake away from the wheel, all of the kinetic energy must be transferred through the chain. That's a lot of stress on the chain and could potentially result in failure. It also puts stress in other places like your motor mounts etc.

It may be in your plans already to add a front brake. But if it's not, I would give it some serious consideration. I have read that in most front brakes vs rear brakes bias, rear brakes should never provide more than 40 percent of the stopping power at any given time. With your particular setup, I feel like this is even more important than it would be with a conventional setup.

I'm only an armchair engineer, so you can take my opinions for what it's worth! Be safe!
 
Looks fun and fast!

I would be remiss if I didn't bring up a concern that I have about your brakes considering the speeds that your riding. While the disk brake setup is super cool looking, it creates some issues that need to be thought through.

By moving the brake away from the wheel, all of the kinetic energy must be transferred through the chain. That's a lot of stress on the chain and could potentially result in failure. It also puts stress in other places like your motor mounts etc.

It may be in your plans already to add a front brake. But if it's not, I would give it some serious consideration. I have read that in most front brakes vs rear brakes bias, rear brakes should never provide more than 40 percent of the stopping power at any given time. With your particular setup, I feel like this is even more important than it would be with a conventional setup.

I'm only an armchair engineer, so you can take my opinions for what it's worth! Be safe!
It's usually a 60/40 or 70/30 split between front and rear on a car.
On motorcycles, I almost always use only the front brake. Unless someone pulls out in front of me, then I use both. Don't want to endo onto the jackrod that pulled in front.
 
Looks fun and fast!

I would be remiss if I didn't bring up a concern that I have about your brakes considering the speeds that your riding. While the disk brake setup is super cool looking, it creates some issues that need to be thought through.

By moving the brake away from the wheel, all of the kinetic energy must be transferred through the chain. That's a lot of stress on the chain and could potentially result in failure. It also puts stress in other places like your motor mounts etc.

It may be in your plans already to add a front brake. But if it's not, I would give it some serious consideration. I have read that in most front brakes vs rear brakes bias, rear brakes should never provide more than 40 percent of the stopping power at any given time. With your particular setup, I feel like this is even more important than it would be with a conventional setup.

I'm only an armchair engineer, so you can take my opinions for what it's worth! Be safe!
It's usually a 60/40 or 70/30 split between front and rear on a car.
On motorcycles, I almost always use only the front brake. Unless someone pulls out in front of me, then I use both. Don't want to endo onto the jackrod that pulled in front.
thanks for you concern ,
i totally understand the stress involved on the chain with the disk , and motor mount is rock solid.
ive been testing it allot today and the coaster brake actually brakes faster , i combine the 2 for hard braking to spread the wear and stress , the tires are so soft and sticky it brakes really fast , besides i restricted the speed to 32kmh to be legal and safer , and i ride pretty safely predicting dangers ahead ,not to mention i almost always had coaster brake bikes that i ride like heck , so skidding is kept under control if it happens
 

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