cut teeth on rear sprocket to skiptooth

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scott brownsey

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hi i have a set of alloy wheels that i want to make skiptooth but the number of teeth dont work out in my favor any ideas .PLEASE HELP......... THANK YOU :? :? the brake arm has the words falcon...sha ..cf-E 11 on it what brand is it and or can i get a skiptooth sprocket that will fit ?
 
a Falcon coaster brake probably uses the same sprocket as KT, Shimano, etc. Buy one with an even number of teeth and grind down every other one. There are a several posts on here somewhere relating to that, it comes up fairly often... :)
 
Bendix said:
a Falcon coaster brake probably uses the same sprocket as KT, Shimano, etc. Buy one with an even number of teeth and grind down every other one. There are a several posts on here somewhere relating to that, it comes up fairly often... :)
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thank you i will look in ebay for a sprocket
 
You have to have an even number of teeth on a sprocket you want to remove every other one for a skip tooth. Im sure, if yours is an odd number, that somewhere is a replacement in even. After you have it comes the work of cutting off teeth, both front and rear. Typical chain on new cogs with every other tooth off still isnt what the original skip tooths were (so you cant use an original cog front or rear with a new one modified), but it will sort of emulate the look, and it will load each tooth, and chain more due to fewer load distribution points.
It has been done here......I know Ive read about it; maybe someone will have the link(s) for you.
 
gcrank1 said:
You have to have an even number of teeth on a sprocket you want to remove every other one for a skip tooth. Im sure, if yours is an odd number, that somewhere is a replacement in even. After you have it comes the work of cutting off teeth, both front and rear. Typical chain on new cogs with every other tooth off still isnt what the original skip tooths were (so you cant use an original cog front or rear with a new one modified), but it will sort of emulate the look, and it will load each tooth, and chain more due to fewer load distribution points.
It has been done here......I know Ive read about it; maybe someone will have the link(s) for you.
Click to expand...
i have the front 1 the bike was a orginal skip i just want to use alloy wheels on it for the look im after the wheels r real wide with 26x2.350 tires the look so sweet i want the skiptooth look its a 20s elgin
 
Were it me, Id use a std. set of sprockets and chain, holding the skip in reserve until I found the rear (and chain, if you dont have one). Eventually the bits will be acquired and you can make the swap, meanwhile you can be ridin'.
 
gcrank1 said:
Were it me, Id use a std. set of sprockets and chain, holding the skip in reserve until I found the rear (and chain, if you dont have one). Eventually the bits will be acquired and you can make the swap, meanwhile you can be ridin'.
Click to expand...
yes i think im just gona wait n c at a later date :roll:
 
I cut off every other tooth on a sprocket once, then dremeled the stub smooth.

2216039432_4501d17f4e_o.jpg


Can't really see it in the photo, but it was for a 1942 Columbia which came with a bizarre 27" wheel size that only Columbia used for a couple of years before WWII. So I got a 1970s Schwinn wheelset to use on it.
 
When you remove every other tooth on a non-ST cog the remaining teeth are still evenly spaced apart, but with an original ST chain, dont you still have the issue of the varying link length? Because the rear is small dia, and the teeth perhaps worn, it kinda fits itself over the teeth, but really the load is taken by only a couple that are fully bearing on the thrust surface. I think that unless you use a modern chain and modified front and rear sprockets, you set yourself up for breaking that hard to replace chain.
 
gcrank1 said:
When you remove every other tooth on a non-ST cog the remaining teeth are still evenly spaced apart, but with an original ST chain, dont you still have the issue of the varying link length? Because the rear is small dia, and the teeth perhaps worn, it kinda fits itself over the teeth, but really the load is taken by only a couple that are fully bearing on the thrust surface. I think that unless you use a modern chain and modified front and rear sprockets, you set yourself up for breaking that hard to replace chain.
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The teeth on an inch pitch cog are evenly spaced though. The only appreciable problem is that the cog is not as thick which does mean (theoretically) that less of the chain bears on it, so (theoretically) there will be more wear to the chain and cog. For a trip around the block every now and then the difference is probably negligible though.
 
OK....I think I get it.... :?
I maybe was not understanding the ST chain links, since one is long (the tooth carrier) and the next shorter; as long as the tooth centers are at the proper intervals to be picked up and carried into the tooth drive surface it is alright. And for the occassional, light duty profilin' ride, you are right that it probably wouldnt make any dif anyway. :D
 

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