Cartridge bearing sizes?

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Does anyone know what size cartridge bearings would fit a 1" steer tube and a standard American a Bottom bracket?


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[Bicycle808]

You'll need to be more specific. The cartridges used in a sealed American BB will vary depending on the OD of the crank spindle and there will be other variations depending on the individual manufacturer of the BB set and what the ID of the bearing cups are. (FYI i have some sealed Tange OPC BB sets; those take a 6005-2rs bearing, which is metric-sized, with a 25mm ID, a 47mm OD, and a 12mm width... http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/kit8503)

As for the headset, again, you'll want to know which headset you're using so you can get the proper dimensions for the cartridge bearings... all will have a 1" inner dimension, but the width of the bearing and the outer dimension will vary depending on the headset's stack height and diameter of the cups.

A good move is to find out what cartridges are currently in place in the component, and then order some replacements in the exact same size via an industrial bearing supply, like VXB.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Thanks 808 I wanted to get the conversation going....
Do the bearings in your post work on a 'typical' OPC setup? As for the headset, I'll have to measure the cups, OR just buy a new headset....


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[Bicycle808]

Thanks 808 I wanted to get the conversation going....
Do the bearings in your post work on a 'typical' OPC setup? As for the headset, I'll have to measure the cups, OR just buy a new headset....


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The bearings i mentioned work with a 24tpi crank (basically, everything but Schwinn), but they work with specific cups and hardware. (Technically, you'd need the specific Tange-built cups and the innermost hardware that includes the "sleeves" that match the cartridges' ID, and you could run conventional keyed washers, locknuts, etc.... but they sell (sold? may be out of production) the whole BB set as a complete unit. If/when i kill the bearings, I can replace them with a standard size...)

If your headset came with loose balls or a caged/retainer set-up, then you won't be able to run cartridges by simply dropping them in. (The same is true for your BB set.) Theoretically, if you were an awesome home machinist, you could machine the existing cups and cones to match a particular cartridge, but no one ever does that. The typical move is to buy a sealed headset, which will come with cartridge bearings. If/when they die, you can usually source replacement cartridges-- and it'll be cheaper if you don't go through typical LBS/bike biz avenues for them. But, a well-made sealed headset's bearings will often last a decade or more.

Basically, for cup to work with sealed cartridge bearings, they need to be machined very precisely to match the bearings, and any hardware that interacts with the cartridges inner section will need to be precisely matched, as well. The loose bearing stuff can be made to much more relaxed standards, and that's usually why an unsealed unit costs so much less than a sealed one. The cartridges themselves are fairly cheap, but the work involved in making the rest of the unit adds to the costs considerably.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Got it, keeping the old style! Hahahaha!

Thanks for the knowledge.
Cheers,
Dr. T


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[Bicycle808]

I don't blame ya. Personally, I think repacks are fun and easy, but if/when i get a Haley tadpole cargo trike, i'm rocking sealed everything, b/c a whale like that ain't easy to get in the stand....
Most of my cruisers run unsealed stuff.... but I have one worksman with all cartridge bearings. It is nice to not have to worry about'm drying out, but it's far from necessary.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

I've been thinking ahead on my builds lately. I plan on moving to the beach in a few years and cartridge bearings may hold up better with the salt air....

 

[Bicycle808]

Oh, they definitely will. Salty conditions are murder on unsealed bearings....and fasteners. And chains. And bikes. But the beach is cool, regardless.