Anyone ever build a hinged fender?

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Fv2

Fv2

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I'm working on a new project and I want to make some custom changes.
I've already made street sweeper fenders, but I want to make the frame a loop tail with rear facing slide outs.

The problem is, if I do that with the sweeper fenders I can't get the rear wheel on or off. So I thought if I hinged the fender I could get the wheel out.

Here's where I stand.
aa99d9e3b0a44a74ebd773760734a6d7.jpg


I'm thinking if I hinge the fender just behind the mounting bridge, that should allow me to remove the wheel from a rear facing slide out.

So has anyone done this, or have any input on whether it could work or not?
 
Or i could see a hinge between the rear cantilevers by brake mount area too... Wing nut at bottom fender bracket for quick release.

Sent from my LGMS550 using Tapatalk
 
I agree with thunderbeard. Although I think you would have to mount the hinge just slightly right of top dead centre as opposed to at the brake brace. I don't think the fender would clear the wheel at that point or raise high enough to remove the wheel as it would hit the seat. And I would put wing nuts on the fender braces where they mount at the frame.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I see what you're saying, but I think putting a hinge at the bridge on the seat stays; that it would open far enough with the seat on.

I do like the wing nut idea too.
But I also plan to put a rack on this one, which will have to be removed to hinge the fender up. So I'm not worried if I have to remove the seat too.
 
deven_science said:
Like a Harley rear fender. Not a bad idea. Also, it would be a way of extending the rear fender without trying to make it look like one piece.
Click to expand...
Something like that.
I've been thinking of a way to make the hinged area look smooth. I figure if I put a rack on, it would help draw the eye away from the hinge.
Still not sure about a rack though.
 
Alright... if nobody has ever seen this, I claim naming rights. Forget the hinge - that's just over complicating it for no good reason unless you are so good you just want to show off. Which I respect by the way! But if I was that good, I'd be showing you the finished product.

You start with two fenders unless you are okay with a slightly shortened rear fender. You measure and cut both fenders to the desired length of the finished fender, and add perhaps 1 to 2 inches. This needs to be done so that the front half of the fender ends exactly at the rear brake bracket. The rear half overlaps the brake bracket and the front half of the fender.

Front half gets bolted on - oh, yeah, make sure you allow for that when cutting.

Back half goes under the front half, and has a slot that will accommodate - straddle - the brake mounting hardware.

If your fenders are stout material, you can bend back a piece of metal to form a small hook on the rear half to micro-bungie over the brake bolt.

To solve the problem of rattling between the two fender pieces, install a vibration control material - maybe even use velcro and forget about the hook and bungie part. Velcro is thousand of little hooks and loops anyway.

ganttfender.jpg


Unless you are a metal worker, hinging this fender is going to be a pita, and it will be hard to eliminate squeaks and rattles. It will be difficult to finish the edges of the hinged fender pieces perfectly to make it pretty and free of sharp edges. This solution simplifies all of it. Only relatively brutish skills are needed in comparison to hinging the fender.

Here's one of my worst photochops ever... I didn't want to spend all night polishing an idea that might not even be liked that well. :)

badchop.jpg
 
I think it started with Thunderbeard's idea, so that would be a good name, a "thunderbeard fender."
 
If the dropouts are facing rearward, why not use some sort of quick release/Dzus fastener and remove the wheel AND fender as a unit? Re-install the same way.

I gave this arrangement some thought when I was considering a fender that completely surrounds the wheel, like a Delahaye fairing.
 
Small text correction on the drawing. That seemed like sheer genius early this morning when I posted it. I have had the flu really bad, and by the time I posted it, I was sorta high the on steroids and codeine the doc gave me. :)
 
Michael Gantt said:
Small text correction on the drawing. That seemed like sheer genius early this morning when I posted it. I have had the flu really bad, and by the time I posted it, I was sorta high the on steroids and codeine the doc gave me. :)
Click to expand...

No excuse needed. These describe the exact circumstances when many are at their most creative. We all knew you were talking about the frame bridge--the perfect location to disguise the joint.
 
Good idea for sure.
The original idea for this bike changed, but I'll revisit the original idea at another time.
 
Michael Gantt said:
Alright... if nobody has ever seen this, I claim naming rights.
Click to expand...
Sorry to say, pretty sure it has been done before on this site...
I'm sure I have seen the overlap at the brake bridge idea on at least 2 builds in the archives...
 
Michael Gantt said:
Alright... if nobody has ever seen this, I claim naming rights. Forget the hinge - that's just over complicating it for no good reason unless you are so good you just want to show off. Which I respect by the way! But if I was that good, I'd be showing you the finished product.

You start with two fenders unless you are okay with a slightly shortened rear fender. You measure and cut both fenders to the desired length of the finished fender, and add perhaps 1 to 2 inches. This needs to be done so that the front half of the fender ends exactly at the rear brake bracket. The rear half overlaps the brake bracket and the front half of the fender.

Front half gets bolted on - oh, yeah, make sure you allow for that when cutting.

Back half goes under the front half, and has a slot that will accommodate - straddle - the brake mounting hardware.

If your fenders are stout material, you can bend back a piece of metal to form a small hook on the rear half to micro-bungie over the brake bolt.

To solve the problem of rattling between the two fender pieces, install a vibration control material - maybe even use velcro and forget about the hook and bungie part. Velcro is thousand of little hooks and loops anyway.

ganttfender.jpg


Unless you are a metal worker, hinging this fender is going to be a pita, and it will be hard to eliminate squeaks and rattles. It will be difficult to finish the edges of the hinged fender pieces perfectly to make it pretty and free of sharp edges. This solution simplifies all of it. Only relatively brutish skills are needed in comparison to hinging the fender.

Here's one of my worst photochops ever... I didn't want to spend all night polishing an idea that might not even be liked that well. :)

badchop.jpg
Click to expand...
This is exactly how I did my Buildoff Ten bike street sweeper rear fender.
http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/murican-flyer-boten.92229/
 
Thanks, guys, I figured there were probably a dozen fender solutions here, somewhere. :) And, to tell the truth... I am absolutely certain that I saw your street sweeper, hammer man, I remember studying that one night when I did not have the flu and half a bottle of codeine cough syrup in me. We'll call it unconscious plagiarism, like George Harrision. :)
 
Michael Gantt said:
Thanks, guys, I figured there were probably a dozen fender solutions here, somewhere. :) And, to tell the truth... I am absolutely certain that I saw your street sweeper, hammer man, I remember studying that one night when I did not have the flu and half a bottle of codeine cough syrup in me. We'll call it unconscious plagiarism, like George Harrision. :)
Click to expand...
I'm sure I lifted the idea from someone else. I have a few more ideas that I'm planning to "re-purpose" in the near future.
 

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