Widen dropouts on Nirve Switchblade?

Bike Wall
Shop deals on ebay
BOXKARS
Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
canidrawonthis

canidrawonthis

Joined
Jun 10, 2015
Messages
8
Reaction score
7
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am trying to figure out the best way to widen the dropouts on my Nirve Switchblade (version 1 from 2007) . I'm looking at putting a sram G8 coaster on it. The hub is 135mm and the frame with no wheel on it is only 115mm inside the dropouts. I have seen a lot of switchblade's with hubs this wide... I'm just wondering how you guys have resolved this issue? I've done it to thin tube road bikes, but this is way beefier tubing than a road bike, and I'm a little nervous to just start bending it. I've spent all my funds on parts and would like to resolve this myself without involving a trip to the local bike builder. Thanks for your response.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
I've got no special method. Easiest way is to put a piece of all-thread rod with some large washers and nuts between the two drops, and just start carefully spreading the nuts apart, forcing the drops open further. If that won't work because of how tough the tubing is, I've got nothing.
 
Is the Switchblade an aluminum frame? If so, spread aluminum frames at your own risk. The metal is far less resilient than steel; in time, it may fatigue and snap. (It may well fatigue and snap the same day you try to spread it....)

If it's steel, look up the advice on Sheldon Brown's site; the 2x4 method worked well for me in the past, on steel frames.
 
Thanks for the info. It is steel and kinda large tubing. Its that size of tube that makes me worry about creasing. I spent today pricing out metal to build a jig that will fit into my vice so i can accurately use the all thread method. I have to sit down and design it in CAD to see if it is even feasible. I'm also looking at making a frame alignment gauge. I usually just jump in and monkey with things, but I really want this bike to turn out nice. This is going to be my main ride. I will post some pictures of the jig system when I get it drawn up.

Thanks



Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
Ok, I gave in and used the all thread method. I worked it slowly over three weeks and it came out perfectly even. I did have to stretch it a good 5/8" extra on each side before it would settle to exactly the right width. I let it sit at its maximum width for a full week. I am super stoked t&at it worked so well!

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top