Thanks guys. I'm using an old aluminum Sakai mtb fork that I must have tried to sell half a dozen times. I have some creative ideas for some truss rods/light brackets. Lots of ideas, not a lot of time!
(WBO) Thorn... OK, really now, it's done PICS!
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I can relate to that...
Lots of ideas but not a lot of time...
Sweet frame though, I like it.
Carl.
Lots of ideas but not a lot of time...
Sweet frame though, I like it.
Carl.
Thanks Carl.
So I think I like the scotch bright finish better than polished. The rubbed finish has a nice glow about it.
Wheels/tire combo is a fit. I think the tire would have a fatter look I was going for if it weren't for the skinny rim. Just for kicks I might try a set of wider rims and see how they fill out the frame.
So I think I like the scotch bright finish better than polished. The rubbed finish has a nice glow about it.
Wheels/tire combo is a fit. I think the tire would have a fatter look I was going for if it weren't for the skinny rim. Just for kicks I might try a set of wider rims and see how they fill out the frame.
Been making some progress this morning. lengthened the steerer tube on my fork so it fits, it was about 1.25" too short. Took forever to assemble a headset that fit everything. I'll have to loose pack the bearings but I prefer that method anyway.
Worked on the rear hub a bit also, modifying the unique coaster brake "arm" to fit my frame which doesn't have the slotted dropout like the trek. Had to commit to some grinding but I think I've got it pretty close. The brake arm is pressed on to some hub parts so I better not mess it up! The hub was a bit wide for the frame, thought I could swap one of the lock nuts for something thinner but the axle is stepped. So when I removed the 1/2" tall locknut there was a larger thread hiding under there. I did some measuring and was able to grind it down to about 3/8" tall which helps a little.
Put another 1/2 hour or so into scotchbright and I think it's time to call it done.
Next on the to do list, strip the paint off the fork and rub it down, then get to work on the truss rods.
Also need to make a new seat post as the original one was pretty mutilated and short.
Worked on the rear hub a bit also, modifying the unique coaster brake "arm" to fit my frame which doesn't have the slotted dropout like the trek. Had to commit to some grinding but I think I've got it pretty close. The brake arm is pressed on to some hub parts so I better not mess it up! The hub was a bit wide for the frame, thought I could swap one of the lock nuts for something thinner but the axle is stepped. So when I removed the 1/2" tall locknut there was a larger thread hiding under there. I did some measuring and was able to grind it down to about 3/8" tall which helps a little.
Put another 1/2 hour or so into scotchbright and I think it's time to call it done.
Next on the to do list, strip the paint off the fork and rub it down, then get to work on the truss rods.
Also need to make a new seat post as the original one was pretty mutilated and short.
Sounds like some good progress!
Luke.
Luke.
Just need to kick the kids outside for sledding so I can get a bit more done this afternoon!
Here are some update photos.. enjoy..
Vintage Sakai mtb fork fits the look pretty well
Here is my modified "brake arm"
Need to find a place to hide this control box. not much more room to move the wheel forward and these are only 2" rubber.
Vintage Sakai mtb fork fits the look pretty well
Here is my modified "brake arm"
Need to find a place to hide this control box. not much more room to move the wheel forward and these are only 2" rubber.
The Renaissance Man
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That fork looks at home, good job!
Depending on what your plans are for a kickstand, I wonder how it would look to mount the box under the frame just behind the BB.
Depending on what your plans are for a kickstand, I wonder how it would look to mount the box under the frame just behind the BB.
Love, love, love it!
In keeping with THM's comment, a drop stand or rear axle mounted kickstand would free up the space behind the crank for mounting, maybe?
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In keeping with THM's comment, a drop stand or rear axle mounted kickstand would free up the space behind the crank for mounting, maybe?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Looks good so far W...What kind of crank arms/chainring is that on the mockup? The fork looks perfect on the frame.
That fork looks at home, good job!
Depending on what your plans are for a kickstand, I wonder how it would look to mount the box under the frame just behind the BB.
Might just skip a kickstand altogether. I have an NOS axle mount one but there isn't a lot of room behind the hubcaps.
cranks are Mongoose 3 piece and no name sprocket. Same 36T as the Trek had
I'm considering cutting the seat stay down so it meets the chain stays and welding them flush. This would allow the hubcaps to be tighter to the frame and streamline the junction a little.
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I love that aluminum frame.
Can we see a full view? Or a 3/4 angle please...
Carl.
Can we see a full view? Or a 3/4 angle please...
Carl.
The Renaissance Man
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I believe that I would look at modifying the hubcaps instead. They can more easily be replaced. Just me though, I'm sure you know what you're doing.
It would be a piece of cake to modify the drive side cap as it is held on with an axle mounted bracket by a couple of screws. However the non drive side has an axle nut pressed it and is meant to spin on. Maybe there is a way to make it press on though...hmmm now you have me thinking.. good stuff RM
Made great progress tonight but the camera is away so no pics till tomorrow or something.
Modified a pair of handlebars to my design, basically they kind of look like Tiller bars. Also used a set of cool semi-ball end grips from some kind of garden implement. Trick was that the grips were for a 5/8 bar. I just happened to have some tubing that was a snug fit into both the handlebar and grip! Inserted 2" into into the end of the handlebars, plug welded from the underside then the grips slide onto the smaller tubing.
The clamp area on the bar is a bit too small for the stem I want to use so I might try a soda can shim and if that doesn't work...dunno, something else..
I wanted to get some fenders on this thing and don't have a lot of decent sets kicking around. I did however have a pair that were powdercoated grey several years ago for a motorbike project. They came off an old Bridgestone ladies bike and have a cool shape to them. Going to make my own super curvey fender braces. I got the front pair bent and also made a bracket to mate them to the trailing end of the fender, still need to cut to size, weld them to the bracket and make an upper bracket that will use the canti bosses.
This was the motorbike project from 2011 I think....cant seem to find any old photos of just the fenders.
Made great progress tonight but the camera is away so no pics till tomorrow or something.
Modified a pair of handlebars to my design, basically they kind of look like Tiller bars. Also used a set of cool semi-ball end grips from some kind of garden implement. Trick was that the grips were for a 5/8 bar. I just happened to have some tubing that was a snug fit into both the handlebar and grip! Inserted 2" into into the end of the handlebars, plug welded from the underside then the grips slide onto the smaller tubing.
The clamp area on the bar is a bit too small for the stem I want to use so I might try a soda can shim and if that doesn't work...dunno, something else..
I wanted to get some fenders on this thing and don't have a lot of decent sets kicking around. I did however have a pair that were powdercoated grey several years ago for a motorbike project. They came off an old Bridgestone ladies bike and have a cool shape to them. Going to make my own super curvey fender braces. I got the front pair bent and also made a bracket to mate them to the trailing end of the fender, still need to cut to size, weld them to the bracket and make an upper bracket that will use the canti bosses.
This was the motorbike project from 2011 I think....cant seem to find any old photos of just the fenders.
OK, so here are some photos of the handlebars.. sorry for the small pics, had to use my phone..
just a regular set of apes..
Cut off the ends, notched the lower curves at stem level so I could bend them wider, also drilled pairs of 1/4" holes for plug welding.
Viola, 5/8" id implement grips work slick! Widened the bars to 24"
Pretty happy with my fender braces so far, going to try to blind fasten them to the fork somehow. Lots of work to go on these.. I have no idea what this piece of steel was originally from.
just a regular set of apes..
Cut off the ends, notched the lower curves at stem level so I could bend them wider, also drilled pairs of 1/4" holes for plug welding.
Viola, 5/8" id implement grips work slick! Widened the bars to 24"
Pretty happy with my fender braces so far, going to try to blind fasten them to the fork somehow. Lots of work to go on these.. I have no idea what this piece of steel was originally from.
It would appear this is a bad year for old ape hangers
Nice job on the bars.
Nice job on the bars.
nice
The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
Staff member
Moderator
Pro Member
Looking forward to seeing them on the bike.OK, so here are some photos of the handlebars.. sorry for the small pics, had to use my phone..
just a regular set of apes..
Cut off the ends, notched the lower curves at stem level so I could bend them wider, also drilled pairs of 1/4" holes for plug welding.
Viola, 5/8" id implement grips work slick! Widened the bars to 24"
Pretty happy with my fender braces so far, going to try to blind fasten them to the fork somehow. Lots of work to go on these.. I have no idea what this piece of steel was originally from.
...Or good, depending on how you look at it!It would appear this is a bad year for old ape hangers
Nice job on the bars.
