Which (Vintage) Frame for Fix Geared Bike?

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Thanks all! I also checked out the subject on Sheldon Brown's website, lots of good info there.

I really like the idea of having an early, skip tooth frame for this, but I think the later 60-'s-70's, short wheelbase stuff will be better, and a lot cheaper. The hunt begins...
 
Found this locally... Haven't pulled the trigger yet, what do you guys think? Already has a flip flop hub, looks ready to go. Cheaper than building one up...
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I've got a thing for black Schwinn's!
 
dougfisk said:
You might could use a little more frame height... :)
Click to expand...

Hmmm... Good thought. I wonder what size I should look for? I'm 6' tall.
 
Ok, this bike is advertised as a 54cm. I found a bike size calculator online and I got 55cm. Pretty close...
 
54cm is the smallest I can go, and I'm only 5'-10" (30" inseam, 32" sleeves). At 54cm (c to c), I have to use a long stem.

I'm thinking you need a 56.
 
You may be right, I've got a 32" inseam.
I'm having trouble understanding why I couldn't raise the seat up a hair to make up the difference. I know there must be a good reason, I'm just not seeing it...
 
GTV said:
You may be right, I've got a 32" inseam.
I'm having trouble understanding why I couldn't raise the seat up a hair to make up the difference. I know there must be a good reason, I'm just not seeing it...
Click to expand...

You can, and many people do... but it is not the "ideal" fit. The length of the top tube and down tube is designed proportionate to the height of the seat tube. By changing the height of the seat (outside a range) you are altering the designed-in geometry. Raising the seat in relation to the handlebars changes the relationship/angle of your back, hips, arms & neck to your legs and the pedals.

Obviously when we ride vintage cruisers designed for 10 year olds we are way outside the design parameters... :) ...But when picking out a road bike frame I try to stay within the guidelines. I just took a look at the first table that popped up and it said 58 to 60cm for your height. But - "the proof of the pudding is in the eating"; - try it on for size.
 
Back when I was looking for my first road bike I thought hmmm yeah I'm a tall guy, I should go for a big bike right? So I went with a 61cm bike and $1600 later I had a very expensive (in my eyes at least) mistake that was too big for me. Thankfully I was able to sell it via CL with a slight, albeit hard to swallow, loss and was able to throw the scratch down on a much more comfortable 58cm one. In hind sight sight I really could have even gone with a 56cm but that would have been pushing it. My big mistake was not doing my homework before I bought online and couldn't ride it before I bought it.

A lot of guys try to make up any size discrepancies by buying a longer or shorter stem and don't realize that it can drastically affect the handling of the bike depending on how much of a change in length there is. At 6'0" I'd really advise you to go no lower than a 56cm and no higher than a 58cm. Anything else will REALLY uncomfortable in the long run. Some of the pros like to ride really small frames with super high seatposts and really long stems, but you have to realize they are both conditioned for it and have the stretch to be bent over in the drops for that amount of time. Hopefully whoever you buy it from won't mind you taking it out for a spin before you buy it and hopefully that test ride won;t be your first time riding a fixie. It could make for a VERY interesting test ride. If it has a flip flop hub, flip it to the freewheel before you test it and experiment later.

Lastly, and this can drum up some contention between lovers and haters, run at least one brake and USE FOOT RETENTION! :D It may seem like a no brainer but you never know! I even have some awesome MKS track pedals with Powerstraps I can sell you if you need them. Brand spankin new.
 
I'm 5'11" and I generally consider 57cm roadbikes to be ideal; if the thing only comes in even sizes, I'll choose 58cm over 56cm. But, that's just me. We all have peculiarities; some of us are leggy folk, and others are half-elf folks with stumpy legs and a long upper body. Best bet is to testride bikes. Don't be a flagrant tire-kicker; borrow some buddies' bikes and see what you're in to.

FWIW, different ppl prefer "french fit" which means "as big as possible without being dangerous , while others prefer to be fit by the fake-racer nerds at the bike shop, who will put you on a tiny thing with a foot and a half of post showing in order to get leg extension. I lean closer to the French crew, but I like to keep my boyz safe, if ya catch my drift. Try to find out what works for you.
 
You can use anything but adapters are sometimes necessary. I used a 1952 Columbia repop frame and bikes direct wheels. The wheels were inexpensive and I have raced a 62 mile gravel grinder with them plus used them for about a dozen 10 mile single track rides. The cogs came from eBay bidding. The BB was replaced with a sealed unit. Stock headset. The rest was from my junk stash. I flip flop it as I have a freewheel on the other side. Avoid vintage Raleigh and French frames as nothing fits. Vintage Japanese built frames are plentiful, inexpensive and have the highest quality for vintage frames. Lighter than Schwinn. That's my two cents.
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GTV said:
Found this locally... Haven't pulled the trigger yet, what do you guys think? Already has a flip flop hub, looks ready to go. Cheaper than building one up...
y6eqepyd.jpg

5e4e3aje.jpg

ezamagum.jpg


I've got a thing for black Schwinn's!
Click to expand...
Please don't put grip on only the tops of the drop bars.
 

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