Not to take over your thread, but you know why men are predominately deaf in their right ear?
Think about it, when you are driving the car, which side is the wife sitting on???;)
Cool. Thanx, @Pondo I didn't have anything to go by so I found a couple of pics where the 26" wheel and fork were a good profile relative to the viewing angle and took a measurement off the printed page. Then extracted that measurement to determine the distance from the hub to the pivot point...
🤣🤣🤣Thats a great line. I use it on my wife too! ""Honey, I'm sorry I didn't hear you. You know I'm partially deaf in my right ear""
I have been using that line for years! 🤣🤣🤣
Funny you should ask.....I have 2 names in mind that are variations of themselves (whaaaat?) - My wife and former high school teacher says if something is "jacked" it is messed up. Since the chainstays are going to be raised, and the front suspension fork is going to be messed up, I was thinking...
Question: does anyone know or would measure the distance of a schwinn style springer fork from the wheel hub bolt holes to the "pivot point" that connects to the bottom of the steerer tube (looks around 15" to 16" or so)? I will be starting the bow saw fork fab soon and I dont have any...
My wife saw this...she thinks the language at the bottom is Greek: at the bottom of the page, folks....the bottom.....
Hope its not too racy
(I'm not sure if I saved/posted this correctly...)
I know $100 is a lot for some things but I'm wondering if its worth the $ or almost worth it. I dont exactly need it nut I hate to see it turn to junk.....buyer says his parents bought it in 1959 for his sister and the tires are not original.
Thoughts? Opinions?
My last option (I could think of) is this fork I found, also buried in the armadillo dirt pile. This may be my best bet. Crank clearance, tire spacing only slightly narrowed and strong enough stays to negate a tube extension from the seat tube to the down tube that was popular on some models...
I then took apart the rear suspension section of a mongoose to check for width (clearance), tire spacing and length from seat tube to dropouts. this may work but will need quite a bit of filing and fab because the spacing between the seat tube and tire decreases as you approach the midpoint...
I mocked up using the cruiser fork and it looks way too wide to provide the crank, chainwheel and foot clearance needed. The amount and location of dimpling needed may seriously compromise the strength.